Gardening Tips and Ideas
THIS BLOG HAS TO MOVE!
We apologize for no blog postings in the last few weeks, but Google Blogger will no longer allow anyone to host blogs at their own domain name and on their own server via FTP, so we have been working very hard to move our blog.
Our New Blog Location is: http://www.weekendgardener.net/blog/
For RSS Readers: After today, Thursday, April 29, 2010 you will no longer receive our blog via RSS unless you:
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For Email Subscribers: If you have subscribed to this blog via email, you should experience no interruption - we think. We will be testing tomorrow with a new blog post from our new location to make sure everything is working correctly.
We are very sorry for this inconvenience, but it was not our choice and we are trying to make it as seamless as possible for you. We just want to get past this and get back to providing you the best Gardening Tips & Ideas that we can!
Thank you for your patience and understanding,
Gardening Tips & Ideas
Weekend Gardener Monthly Web Magazine
For more Gardening Tips and Gardening Advice visit our main gardening website at Weekend Gardener Monthly Web Magazine
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When To Prune Lilac Bushes
 Lilacs (Syringa spp.) have to be one of the best smelling flowers of spring. They have such an intense aroma.
In order to make sure you enjoy your lilac flowers every year, they will need to be periodically pruned. Lilacs, like many flowering shrubs flower on new growth.
So if you haven't pruned your lilac in a while, and you have been getting fewer and fewer flowers every year - you need to prune.
Most lilacs don't need to be pruned until they have matured and reached six or seven feet (2 to 2.25 m) tall, and there are two ways you can prune them.
1. In the spring right after they have finished flowering since this will allow new shoots plenty of time to grow and develop buds for next season.
2. Or if your plant is really old and has stopped flowering, prune in late winter, early spring while the shrub is still dormant. You want to do this because it's easier to see the old wood and new wood.
Take some loppers or really sharp pruners and go through and thin out all the old wood stems all the way down to the base of the plant. This will thin your plant out and allow new wood to grow, and you'll have many more flowers as a result.
Pruning lilacs is easy and fast and there is no better way to ensure regular flower production than cutting them back every year or two.
It's also better for their health, because when you open up a lilac plant by thinning it out, you allow better air circulation and less powdery mildew and other diseases will occur.
Lastly, don't worry if you prune too much off. Lilacs are tough plants and they will come back even better the next season.
For more Gardening Tips and Gardening Advice visit our main gardening website at Weekend Gardener Monthly Web Magazine
Have great week!
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Get Rid Of Weeds In Garden Mulch
 Throughout the year we talk a lot about the benefits of mulch.
It's great for water retention in the soil, it helps fight weeds and drought, and it also can be a good soil conditioner.
The problem with mulch however is that it can harbor weed seeds and make a mess of newly made and planted garden areas.
To avoid this problem, we need to make sure that any weed seeds that may be hiding in mulches such as hay, manure, compost, small bark, and grass clippings don't become a problem for us.
Here's How To Get Rid Of Weeds in Garden Mulch
1. Choose a full sun location
2. In late winter or early spring, take your mulch of choice, and spread into a 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick layer on soil or concrete
3. Water it well
4. Cover it with black plastic
5. The weed seeds will sprout after few days of warm weather, then will be killed by frost and lack of light
6. The mulch is now ready to safely use anywhere in your garden
Related Articles:
The Wonders of Mulch - A Complete How To Use Mulch Guide
Mulching - How Much And How Deep?
For more Gardening Tips and Gardening Advice visit our main gardening website at Weekend Gardener Monthly Web Magazine
Have great week!
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When To Start Herb Seeds Indoors Gardening Tip
 This week finishes up our three-part series on starting vegetable, flower and herb seeds indoors.
This is an important topic, because if you start seeds too early, you can hurt your chances of success.
To make sure you start your herb seeds at the correct time, here are some guidelines to help you figure out how many weeks you need to allow between starting herb seeds indoors and transplanting them into the garden:
Herb & Weeks to Transplant Time:
Basil - 4 to 6
Chives - 6 to 8
Dill - 4 to 6
Lavender - 8 to 10
Rosemary - 8 to 10
Sage - 6 to 8
Thyme - 8 to 10
Remember: smaller plants tend to transplant into the garden really well, so there is no pressing need to grow large transplants.
Related Articles:
Starting Vegetable Seeds Indoors That Thrive
Get the Most Out of Mail Order Seed Catalogs
For more Gardening Tips and Gardening Advice visit our main gardening website at Weekend Gardener Monthly Web Magazine
Have great week!
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When To Start Flower Seeds Indoors
 Winter is still very much here, but as we discussed last week, you can get ready for spring planting soon. The key however, is to start your indoor seeds on time.
The problem is that most gardeners start their flower seeds indoors too soon, and since most don't have enough (or adequate) lighting, the seedlings tend to get spindly and weak before it's time to transplant them into the garden.
To make sure you start you flower seeds at the correct time, here are some guidelines to help you figure out how many weeks you need to allow between starting flower seeds indoors and transplanting them into the garden:
Flower & Weeks to Transplant Time:
Ageratum - 6 to 8
Aster - 6 to 8
Celosia - 6 to 8
Centaurea - 4 to 6
Cosmos - 4 to 6
Marigold - 4 to 6
Morning glory - 4 to 6
Snapdragon - 8 to 10
Statice - 8 to 10
Stock - 6 to 8
Strawflower - 6 to 8
Sweet Pea - 4 to 6
Zinnia - 4 to 6
Next week, we'll discuss starting herb seeds.
Related Articles:
Starting Vegetable Seeds Indoors That Thrive
Get the Most Out of Mail Order Seed Catalogs
For more Gardening Tips and Gardening Advice visit our main gardening website at Weekend Gardener Monthly Web Magazine
Have great week!
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When To Start Vegetable Seeds Indoors
 Many gardeners like to get a start on their spring garden by sowing seeds indoors. This is great, but if you start them too early, you can hurt your chances of success.
Since most people don't have enough (or adequate) lighting, the seedlings tend to get spindly and weak before it's time to transplant them into the garden.
So, make sure you don't start your vegetable seeds too early. Remember, smaller plants tend to transplant into the garden really well, so there is no pressing need to grow large transplants.
Here are some guidelines to help you figure out how many weeks you need to allow between starting vegetable seeds and transplanting them into the garden so you'll know when to start vegetable seeds indoors.
Vegetable & Weeks to Transplant Time:
Broccoli - 4 to 5
Brussels sprouts - 4 to 5
Cabbage - 4 to 5
Cauliflower - 4
Celery - 10
Chinese cabbage - 3 to 4
Cucumbers - 3 to 4
Eggplant - 6 to 7
Leeks - 8
Lettuce - 3 to 4
Melons - 3 to 4
Peppers - 7 to 8
Pumpkins - 3
Squash - 3
Tomatoes - 4 to 5
Next week, we'll discuss starting flower seeds.
Related Articles:
Starting Vegetable Seeds Indoors That Thrive
Get the Most Out of Mail Order Seed Catalogs
For more Gardening Tips and Gardening Advice visit our main gardening website at Weekend Gardener Monthly Web Magazine
Have great week!
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Monthly Gardening Tips To Do List
 Free Gardening Calendars For 2010 Now Available!
It's that time of year again and we have finished putting together our beautiful gardening calendars for 2010.
Each free gardening calendar comes with a colorful picture and two to three pages of gardening tips and "to dos" that are appropriate for that time of year including what to plan, plant, prune, maintain, plus weed and pest control and fun projects.
Print out as many as you want!
Just go to: Free Gardening Calendars
If you like them, make sure to share them with your family and friends.
Enjoy and Happy New Year!
For more Gardening Tips and Gardening Advice visit our main gardening website at Weekend Gardener Monthly Web Magazine
Have great week!
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Blueberry Look-A-Likes and Taste-A-Likes
 If you love blueberries, but just can't grow them because of their acidity and other requirements, you might want to try juneberries.
Juneberries (Amelanchier spp.), also known as serviceberries and saskatoons, are one of the easiest berries you can ever plant and grow.
Unlike blueberries, they grow in any type of soil, so you can plant them just about anywhere as long as they get full sun.
Juneberries produce sweet berries that taste very similar to blueberries and can be eaten fresh right off the shrub, used in baked goods, cobblers, dried and stored, or made into jams and jellies.
Because they naturally contain quite a lot of pectin, you don't need much thickener when cooking them into jam. The Indians, who used them like blueberries, dried them and added them in stews and pemmican.
They have seeds like a blueberry, but they are softer and have a mild almond flavor. When they are cooked, the taste is so similar to blueberries they are hard to tell apart.
Another great aspect of these shrubs and small trees is that they are very disease resistant and not susceptible to any insects.
Juneberries are not only tasty, but they are very ornamental with showy white flowers in the spring and red leaves in the fall.
Depending upon what variety you plant, they can be grown as shrubs or small trees, and each plant will produce large quantities of fruit.
Here are two varieties that do very well:
1. Juneberry / Serviceberry - Regent Saskatoon
Amelanchier alnifolia 'Regent'
Regent Saskatoon Serviceberry, (Amelanchier alnifolia 'Regent'), is a multi-stemmed shrub that displays multitudes of white flowers in spring and produces small black-purple fruits that are sweet; excellent for fresh eating or making jelly. Birds love them too. Since it flowers early in spring, this plant provides food for many pollinating insects. The gray-green foliage turns yellow to red in fall and is attractive to bees, butterflies and/or birds. Amelanchier 'Regent' is very winter hardy and has healthy foliage that is not bothered by insects or disease. It is drought tolerant but water regularly; do not over water.
Mature Height 4 - 6 feet (1.2 - 1.8 m)
Mature Spread 4 - 8 feet (1.2 - 2.4 m)
Soil Type Widely Adaptable
Moisture Widely Adaptable
Mature Form Mounding
Growth Rate Moderate
Sun Exposure Full Sun
Flower Color White
Fall Color Yellow to Red
Foliage Color Gray Green
Zones 2-7
2. Juneberry / Serviceberry - Shadblow
Amelanchier canadensis
Shadblow Serviceberry, (Amelanchier canadensis), is a large upright shrub that contains beautiful snowy white flowers in the spring before the foliage appears. The Shadblow produces sweet red-purple edible fruit that can be used in pies and jellies. This shrub spreads by sucker growth from the roots and the blue-green foliage turns yellow to red in the fall.
Mature Height 20 – 25 feet (6.0 - 7.6 m)
Mature Spread 10 – 15 feet (3.0 - 4.6 m)
Soil Type Widely Adaptable
Moisture Widely Adaptable
Mature Form Upright
Growth Rate Moderate
Sun Exposure Full Sun
Flower Color Snowy White
Fall Color Yellow to Red
Foliage Color Gray Green
Zones 4-8
Click Here: To purchase or get more information about Juneberries / Serviceberries
Other Helpful Articles:
How To Successfully Grow Wonderful Berries - Part 1
Successfully Grow Berries - Part 2
For more Gardening Tips and Gardening Advice visit our main gardening website at Weekend Gardener Monthly Web Magazine
Have great week!
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4 Best Ways To Use Fall Leaves In Your Garden
 The tree leaves that accumulate around your yard or garden can be a valuable natural resource for you to use because they provide a good source of organic matter and nutrients.
Leaves don't always seem like a good thing however, especially when you have a lot of raking to do, but if you can, be thankful and hang on to your leaves.
Leaves contain 50 to 80 percent of the nutrients a plant extracts from the soil and air during the season, so if you can, use and recycle your leaves around your property rather than raking them up and throwing them away.
Here are 4 of the best ways to use leaves in your yard, garden, or landscape:
1. Leaf Uses - Mowing
Mowing leaves that have fallen on your lawn area is most effective when a mulching mower is used, but if the leaf drop is light, a regular mower will work just fine. In fact, during times of light leaf drop, or if there are only a few small trees in your yard, simply leave the shredded leaves in place on the lawn. They will act as a beneficial mulch and compost and will help your lawn.
2. Leaf Uses - Mulching
Leaves can be used as mulch in vegetable gardens, flower beds and around shrubs and trees. The best way is to rake the leaves into a pile and then shred them with your lawn mower or a shredder if you have one.
It you have the option, use a lawn mower with a bagging attachment because it is a fast and easy way to shred and collect the leaves. Leaves that have been mowed or run through some other type of shredder will decompose faster
Leaves that are not shredded won't decompose as well and will only smother what they are put on. Try and never let leaves remain on a lawn without raking them up or they can smother the grass underneath.
- Apply a 3 to 6 inch (7.5 to 15 cm) layer of shredded leaves around the base of trees and shrubs making sure not to put any right up against the trunk or main stem of trees or shrubs.
- In annual and perennial flower beds, a 2 to 3 inch (5 to 7.5 cm) mulch of shredded leaves is good.
- For vegetable gardens, a thick layer of leaves placed in between the rows work both as a mulch and as an all-weather walkway that will allow you to work in your garden during wet periods.
3. Leaf Uses - Soil Improvement
Leaves that have been raked and shredded can be worked directly into your garden and flower beds. A 6 to 8 inch (15 to 20 cm) layer of leaves tilled into a heavy, clay soil will improve aeration and drainage. The same amount worked into a light, sandy soil, will improve water and nutrient holding capacity.
Note: A basic strategy for using leaves to improve soil in vegetable gardens and annual planting beds is to collect and work them into the soil during the fall. This allows sufficient time for the leaves to decompose prior to spring planting. Adding a little fertilizer to the soil after working in the leaves will hasten their decomposition.
4. Leaf Uses - Composting
Leaves are great to add to your compost pile or bin. Once again, shredding them first will help them decompose faster, but whole leaves can be added in as well.
Other Helpful Articles:
The Complete Guide To Mulch
Mulching - How Much and How Deep?
For more Gardening Tips and Gardening Advice visit our main gardening website at Weekend Gardener Monthly Web Magazine
Have great week!
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Keep Tulip Bulbs Cold!
 One of the most common problems with tulip bulbs is that they don't need that much warmth to start breaking dormancy and begin growing.
So it's not unusual to see tulips growing in the middle of winter during a brief warm spell only to be killed or ruined by a heavy frost or snow a few days later.
To avoid this problem, keep your tulips as cold as possible - as long as possible.
Here's What To Do:
1. Tulips need to be planted in cold soil so they don't send up shoots. Tulips planted in warm soil, or even soil that gets a lot of sun during the day where it can warm up won't do as well.
2. Plant tulips deep! Plant them 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm) deep because if they are planted too shallow, it can lead to premature growth. Deep planting also will produce large, uniform flowers for many years, plus deep planting also makes the bulbs less susceptible to mouse and squirrel damage.
3. Mulch the soil - but only AFTER THE SOIL FREEZES. A 2 to 3 inch (5 to 7.5 cm) layer of shredded leaves, wood shavings, or compost in the winter will keep the soil consistently COLD (not warm).
Other Helpful Articles:
How To Buy Flower Bulbs
Confidently Forcing Bulbs - The Best Ever!
Professional tips and insights into forcing bulbs
The First Flowers of Spring
Five delightful plants that flower well before other, more popular spring bulbs
For more Gardening Tips and Gardening Advice visit our main gardening website at Weekend Gardener Monthly Web Magazine
Have great week!
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Late Fall Tilling
 Tilling your soil in the late fall can be very beneficial, but there can also be some drawbacks.
Benefits:
1. It can help control insects, such as corn borer, corn earworm, cucumber beetle, squash bug, slug eggs, and vine borer because it exposes overwintering insects to winter conditions.
2. It can also make spring soil preparation easier because by adding organic matter now, your soil will be in better condition in a few months and will be easier to dig and plant.
3. Tilling in the fall allows a large amount of organic matter such as guano, compost, bark, and manures to be turned into the soil. This organic matter will start decomposing because the microbes are active currently and ready to start breaking everything down.
Drawbacks:
While all of the above are very good benefits, tilling in the fall should be done with some thought.
1. Soil erosion can be a problem if your area gets huge rain or winds during the fall and winter months. If that is the case, think about the tradeoffs of losing good topsoil to waiting and doing your tilling in the spring.
2. Be careful not to ruin your soil structure. Never work wet soil, especially clay. You may ruin the soil structure for years to come. Here's how to best determine How To Care For Your Soil Structure with this step-by-step article: Care For Your Soil Structure
For more Gardening Tips and Gardening Advice visit our main gardening website at Weekend Gardener Monthly Web Magazine
Have great week!
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Prehistoric Plants
 This summer has been a good time to visit various botanical gardens and zoos and to notice that many plants that are used in these public displays today, are actually prehistoric plants.
Interestingly enough, one of the more popular themes within a zoo or botanical garden is the one that grows prehistoric plants.
Well, you can grow some of these exciting specimens in your own yard.
Some prehistoric plants which date back from 150 to 270 million years include:
Dawn Redwood (Metasequoia glyptostroboides)
Maidenhair Tree (Ginkgo biloba)
Katsura Tree (Cercidiphyllum japonicum)
Bald Cypress (Taxodium distichum)
Bayberry (Myrica pensylvanica)
Boxwood (Buxus)
Larch (Larix)
Ferns
For more Gardening Tips and Gardening Advice visit our main gardening website at Weekend Gardener Monthly Web Magazine
Have great week!
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How To Start Cool Fall Crops During Warm Summer Days
 The best time to start fall crops is in late summer for a late fall harvest. The problem however, is that the soil and the daytime temperatures can sometimes still be so warm that it can be hard to get cool-weather crops to germinate and grow.
Here is a way to get around that problem!
1. Dig a shallow trench that is about 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) deep.
2. Line the trench with come good garden soil or compost.
3. Put your seeds in the trench, and then cover them shallowly with more compost or garden soil. Don’t worry that the seeds aren’t planted as deep as may be mentioned on the seed packet. Just cover them shallowly.
4. Water the trench and seeds in carefully, but thoroughly.
5. Cover the trench with boards or very thick cardboard. The trick here is to keep the heat out and keep the seeds in the trench cool and in the dark. So the thicker the material you use the cover the trench, the better.
6. Check under the boards regularly, and as soon as you see small pale seedlings growing, remove the boards.
7. Grow your seedlings as usual now that they are started.
This trick works great with several fall crops like broccoli, cabbage, carrots, lettuce, and cauliflower.
For more Gardening Tips and Gardening Advice visit our main gardening website at Weekend Gardener Monthly Web Magazine
Have great week!
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Pepper Plants Have No Fruit
 One of the most common complaints heard about pepper plants is that the plant itself is beautiful, but there is no fruit!
The reason is over-fertilization.
Pepper plants don't need a lot of food to grow and do well. They only need about one teaspoon (5 ml) of 5-10-10 at planting time, and another teaspoon at the flowering stage.
If you have fed your peppers more than that, you risk the plant putting all its energy into growing leaves, and not producing any fruit.
How to Fix:
Spray the plant with Epsom salts at the rate of 1 teaspoon (5 ml) dissolved in an old window-spray bottle of warm water. That's about 4 cups (1 liter) of water.
By doing this, you will give your pepper plants a boost of magnesium that is required by these plants at flowering time in order to produce fruit.
Spray them again 10 days later and in a few weeks you will have peppers that you can eat!
For more Gardening Tips and Gardening Advice visit our main gardening website at Weekend Gardener Monthly Web Magazine
Have great week!
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Grow Melons In A Water Well
 To grow the best, juiciest melons, one of the most important things you need to do is to make sure that they get enough water.
By growing them in a "water well" you will ensure that they will.
Here's what you do:
1. Make sure each "well" is 5 feet (1.5 m) apart.
2. Dig a hole that is at least 4 inches (10 cm) deep and 18 inches (45 cm) wide.
3. Fill each hole with compost or good rich, loamy soil.
4. Water the compost in thoroughly and let it sit for a day or two.
5. In each composted hole, plant 6 to 8 seeds.
6. When the seedlings begin to emerge, apply a surface mulch of compost and then thin the seedlings to 3 plants per hole.
The compost-rich hole that you have created is retaining moisture much better than regular garden soil and is providing the melon roots the moisture they require to produce juicy, delicious melons.
During hot, dry days, make sure you water the melons deeply when the compost begins to dry out, which could be every day, or every few days depending upon your area.
Either way, make sure the that the soil moisture remains high, which the composted "water well" will greatly help you do.
Other Articles of Interest:
Grow The Juiciest Melons Ever
The Wonders of Mulch
A Complete How To Use Mulch Guide
Mulching - How Much And How Deep?
For more Gardening Tips and Gardening Advice visit our main gardening website at Weekend Gardener Monthly Web Magazine
Have great week!
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Microgreens - Grow Your Own!
 If you've never grown microgreens such as culinary herbs, edible flowers, baby lettuce or specialty greens, you really should, because they are a great way to garden year round.
Microgreens are a delicious base for, or an addition to, salads, entrees, and appetizers, plus they can easily be grown, giving you access to fresh greens any time of the year.
What Are Microgreens?
In the old days (like back in the 50s-60s-70s) what we called growing alfalfa sprouts has now developed into "microgreens" because the entire concept has really progressed to the next level.
The microgreens that are available now are the super nutritious, but immature stage (between sprouts and leafy greens) of vegetables, herbs and some edible flowers, and they are mass produced by specialty growers for organic markets, specialty chefs and restaurants, whole foods producers, and online delivery.
The great thing is that even though they are small, they are big on flavor and can be grown just about anywhere - even on a windowsill - because they are basically houseplants you can eat.
Popular Microgreens To Grow:
Peas
Kale
Cabbage
Arugula
Radishes
Beets
Clover
Mustard
What makes microgreens so easy to grow is because they don't need a lot of light, and they’re only going to be grown until the emergence of the first leaf (the cotyledon) stage, so a windowsill or sunny kitchen counter is a ideal location.
Also, each microgreen has an individual flavor, so you can grow your own microgreen "blend" if you want.
Note: If you want to grow a blend of microgreens, just keep in mind that it's important to plant those that have similar germination rates together so you can harvest your greens all at once.
Here's How To Grow Your Own Microgreens:
Supplies:
1. Shallow trays with clear domed lids (available at garden supply stores)
2. Potting soil
3. Seeds
4. Paper towels
Growing and Harvesting:
1. Create a seed bed by filling trays with soil. Be sure the soil is spread uniformly and that the surface is flat
2. Sow seeds by taking handfuls of seed and sprinkling them liberally across the soil surface
3. Press gently on sown seeds to be sure they have contact with the growing medium
4. Place a paper towel over the seed bed - 1 layer thick
5. Water using a kitchen sprayer, or a spray bottle, and thoroughly soak the towels until you are sure the soil beneath is wet
6. Cover trays with lids and place in a location that is not exposed to direct sunlight, but rather an area that gets very little light at all
Note: The lid on the tray will help keep moisture in and stimulate germination, but make sure that the paper towel stays moist during the process. If it dries out, wet it again.
Note: On the other hand, the lid can sometimes create a 'green house effect' so monitor your trays carefully. If the seeds seem to be getting too hot inside, remove the lid slightly to allow for ventilation and some air circulation.
7. Once the seeds fully germinate, which can vary based on seed type used, you'll notice the towel starting to lift off the soil. When this happens, remove the lid and paper towels from the tray and place the tray in a location that gets bright, but indirect sunlight
8. Continue to water gently as needed. Remember that over-watering can be just as damaging as under-watering, so allow the plants to dry slightly between waterings
9. Harvest microgreens any time after the emergence of the first leaves by cutting the stems with sharp kitchen scissors
10. Wash the greens by placing them in a container such as a small, plastic dish pan, and then dry them on a towel
11. Use your microgreens immediately, or store them in a resealable bag in the refrigerator
That's it! Pretty simple. And if you're a salad eater like me, this is a wonderful way to add new zest and zip to your lunch or dinner salads, so give it a try!
For more Gardening Tips and Gardening Advice visit our main gardening website at Weekend Gardener Monthly Web Magazine
Have great week!
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Easily Set A Sundial
 Sundials are kind of a neat addition to your yard or garden because they have been used for centuries and they can add a sense of history and interest like no other garden decor.
Now there are dozens of different kinds of sundials and setting them up can go from very complicated to very easy depending upon how accurate you want them to be.
For our purposes, we are going to set up our sundial so that it is going to give us the most accurate reading we can get without spending huge amounts of time worrying about longitudes, latitudes, or percentages of angles.
After all, if you want precise time like Greenwich Mean Time, then your cell phone, or digital watch is what you're after!
Setting A Sundial
1. Be sure the spot you've chosen is level and in full sun. If you have picked out a 'vertical' sundial, it should be mounted on a sunny, south-facing wall.
2. Place your sundial so that the gnomon (the shadow arm) is pointed toward celestial north. (south in the Southern Hemisphere), not the magnetic north of a compass. The simplest way to find celestial north is to position your sundial at noon. Turn your sundial so that the shadow of the gnomon falls directly on the mark representing noon. You are NOW on sun time.
3. You may not be particularly concerned with complete accuracy of your sundial, but if you are, you should 'reset' it on one of the four days of the year when sun time and clock time agree:
4 Days Of The year When to Reset or Set Your Sundial
April 15
June 15
September 1
December 24.
If you set a sundial on other dates, it can be as much as 14 minutes behind clock time or 16 minutes ahead of it. This is simply because sundials measure time 'as it is' and each day the length of sunlight is shorter or longer from the previous day's length.
To a sundial, noon is always when the sun is highest in the sky.
For more Gardening Tips and Gardening Advice visit our main gardening website at Weekend Gardener Monthly Web Magazine
Have great week!
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Fast Growing Vegetables and Gardening Tips For Kids
 Getting kids interested in gardening is very easy because there are so many things they can do, and they are natural gardeners because they're curious and they love to play in the dirt.
Here are few crops to try out.
They are good because they give kids fast results!
Sunflowers
A must for a child's garden because they germinate and grow so fast. They will sprout in about 1 week, become a small seedling in 2 weeks, and should be around 2-3 feet (1 m) tall in a month.
Lettuce
Another fast crop that gives kids fast results, and it's also a good way to interest kids in salads.
Radishes
Germinate in 3-10 days, and have a very short growing season of 20-30 days.
Snow peas
They take about 10 days to germinate and mature in about 60 days. They are also fun for kids to eat right off the vine.
Cherry tomatoes
These may be the most fun crop for kids, aside from strawberries.
Nasturtiums
These flowers are easy to grow and they bloom about 50 days after the seeds are planted, with orange, yellow and red flowers. The flowers are also edible, and can be used to add color to a fresh garden salad.
Bush beans
Fast, easy, high yield and, because they do not grow tall, they are easy for kids to harvest. Bush beans germinate in 4-8 days, and mature in 40-65 days.
Pumpkins
If you have the room! Seeds will sprout in about 1 week; after a few days, vine leaves begin to form and creep along the ground. Pumpkins take 80 - 120 days to harvest
A Few Tips for gardening with children
1. Give them their own garden beds or area to work in.
2. Give them serious children-sized tools. Cheap plastic child's gardening tools are worse than no tools at all; they break easily and frustrate the user.
3. Engage them through the entire process, from seed to table. Children learn better when they understand the context of their activity. They will learn that gardening can be fun, but far more than idle play; they are contributing to the family well-being.
4. Start from seeds. While it's a convenient shortcut to buy starters, children will learn more by seeing the growing process as it begins with seeds. The care given to sprouting seeds and nurturing the young seedling are a valuable part of the gardening experience.
5. When all else fails, make a scarecrow. The best time to engage children in gardening is when they're in the mood for this activity. If their attention wanes, or the garden tasks become boring, let them build a scarecrow. This activity is still a contribution to the gardening effort and adds another layer of interest to the garden scene. It also reminds the child of the importance of the crop.
6. Show off their work. When giving 'garden tours' to friends, be sure to point out the children's beds. Take a photo of their harvest and send it to the grandparents. The attention given to their work is the best motivator for children to stay involved with a project.
For more Gardening Tips Advice For Gardeners visit our main gardening website at Weekend Gardener Monthly Web Magazine
Have great week!
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Grow Caladium Bulbs, Elephant's Ear Outdoors
 Last week we discussed how best to grow caladium bulbs indoors, so this week we are going to go over some tips on how to best grow them outdoors.
How To Grow Caladium Bulbs, Elephant's Ear - Outdoors
General Information:
Although some people may call them bulbs, Caladium bicolor (C. x hortulanum) are actually tubers that originated in South America.
Hundreds of cultivars have been developed offering heart or arrow-shaped leaves that are veined, edged, or mottled in almost endless variations of pink, red, green, white, silver, and mixed color.
Caladium leaves, which can grow up to 24 inches (30 to 60 cm) long, provide a tropical feel to any yard or garden, which can give a stunning look to decks, patios, and pool or spa areas.
Because they are from South America, caladiums do best in hot, humid climates and are hardy to grow outdoors year-round only in very warm climates like Hawaii, or a Zone 10.
This doesn't mean you can't enjoy them in your yard - you most definitely can - but you will have to think of them as a summer plant.
Two Ways To Grow Caladium Outdoors
Because they are sensitive to cooler temperatures, you can grow caladium either:
1. In the ground outdoors
2. In pots outdoors
If you decide to grow them in the ground, you will have to dig them up and store them over winter, which is fast and easy to do, and worth the few minutes of time because these plants are so showy for months.
If you grow them in pots outdoors, you will need to move them indoors over the cold weather months, but more on that in a minute.
Light Requirements
Most caladium require bright shade, although a few newer varieties can tolerate some sun including:
'Fire Chief'
'Rose Bud'
'Red Flash'
'White Queen'
Basic Outdoor Requirements
Caladiums need rich soil, high humidity, and heat above 70° F (21° C) during the day and warm night temperatures of 60° F (16° C) or warmer.
To Grow Caladium In The Ground - Outdoors
Caladium tubers need warm temperatures to do well, so wait until the spring weather in your area is stable and above 70° F (21° C) consistently.
You can always start the tubers indoors about 2 months before you know the outdoor temperatures will be 70° F (21° C) or warmer.
1. Start the tubers in trays of moist peat moss or vermiculite by pressing the tubers 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) deep in the growing media. Place them with the knobby side up.
2. Keep the trays between 75° F and 85° F (24° to 29° C)
3. When leaves start to appear, transplant them into 4 inch (10 cm) peat pots that can later be set directly into the ground in your garden.
To Start Caladium Directly In The Ground
1. Plant tubers in the spring in an area that gets bright shade. Deep shade will produce weak and spindly growth.
2. Place them with the knobby side up so their tops are level with the soil surface.
3. Protect them from snails and slugs.(read our Definitive Organic Guide on How To Kill Snails and Slugs).
4. To encourage continuous production of new leaves and bright-colored foliage, give caladiums regular water, and feed lightly every two weeks throughout the growing season.
5. You can use a balanced soluble fertilizer like a 5-5-5 or a 10-10-10, but nearer the fall, use a 5-10-5 fertilizer to help the bulb store up more energy for its winter dormancy.
6. Cut back dead leaves in the fall. Where freezing weather is likely, dig the tubers out of the ground; remove most of the soil and dry the tubers for several days in a shaded, dry location.
7. Store in dry peat moss at 50° to 60° F (10° to 16° C)
To Grow Caladium In Pots - Outdoors
1. Start tubers in pots in the spring.
2. Use a soil mix made from equal parts of coarse sand, compost, and ground bark or ground peat moss.
3. Use a 5 inch (12.5 cm) pot for a 2-1/2 inch (3.75 cm) tuber, or a 7 inch (17.5 cm) pot for one to two large tubers.
4. Fill halfway with the soil mix; and stir in a few generous pinches of bulb fertilizer like a 5-10-5.
5. Add one more inch (2.5 cm) soil, place the tuber on top and cover with 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of soil.
6. Water in and keep moist until the tubers spout.
7. Give regular water and fertilizer the same way as mentioned above for growing caladium in the ground.
Problems: Low light will cause weak growth. Dry air or cool drafts can cause the leaves to yellow and die.
Tips:
1. Always remove any flowers since they drain the tuber of its energy
2. Remove all dead leaves at dormancy
3. If you plant the tubers upside down, they will grow large quantities of smaller leaves which can be beautiful
4. Aphids and spider mites can be possible problems
In The Fall
At the end of summer, or after 6 to 8 months of growth, caladiums will start to look stringy and tired. That's your cue to stop watering them, and put them in full shade to induce a dormancy period.
When the leaves die back, cut them off. You can store the tubers either loose in peat moss or vermiculite, or you can leave them in their pots.
Either way, keep them at room temperature or slightly cooler, but never cooler than 50° F (C) during the winter months. You don't want to let them get too cold during the winter because these are tropical plants that like warm conditions.
When new shoots start to show in the spring - if you left them in their pots - start watering them again.
If you dug them up, plant them back outdoors again.
Conclusion
If you want a tropical plant in your yard this summer, try caladiums because they are easy to grow and are endless in their color combinations and varieties.
Plus - with the above information, you have all you need to grow them successfully!
Enjoy!
For more Gardening Tips and Gardening Advice visit our main gardening website at Weekend Gardener Monthly Web Magazine - http://www.weekendgardener.net
Have great week!
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Grow Caladium Bulbs, Elephant's Ear
 Caladiums provide gorgeous color and excitement to your yard or house all summer long since they can be grown indoors or out.
This week we're going to go over how to best grow caladium indoors, next week we'll give tips how to best grow them outdoors.
How To Grow Caladium Bulbs, Elephant's Ear - Indoors
Caladium bicolor (C. x hortulanum) grows from a tuber, and is the most commonly grown species. In fact there are hundreds of cultivars available some of which include:
'Candidum' - pure white foliage and dark green veins
'Fanny Munson' - light pink foliage with green veins and margins and deep pink midribs
'Pink Beauty' - pink leaves with red veins and bordered with green and pink speckles
'Red Flash' - dark green leaves spotted white, deep red veins and wide green margins
Because of their incredible versatility offering different leaf patterns and colors, caladium never get boring to have around.
Caladium leaves, which grow 12 to 24 inches (30 to 60 cm) long, are usually heart or arrow-shaped, but some are lance-shaped and can come with spots and veins in shades of white, pink, red, green, and mixed colors.
They do flower, but the flowers themselves are not very interesting being a greenish white, and are usually removed so as to not drain the tuber's energy.
What Time Of Year To Plant
In the spring and early summer you'll find nurseries and home improvement centers have caladiums fully grown, but you can save quite a bit of money by buying the tubers instead.
If you opt to buy your own tubers, buy firm, large tubers that are not diseased or sick looking.
Planting Them Up
Plant three tubers in an 8-inch (20 cm) pot, and cover them with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of potting soil. Water them in.
Growing Conditions Caladiums Need
Light: Bright filtered - keep out of direct sunlight or they will fade. Low light will cause spindly growth
Water: Keep evenly moist, but allow them to dry during their winter dormancy (see more below)
Humidity: High. These are tropical plants so if you have a dry house, put a tray of water and pebbles under the plant - just make sure to keep the plant out of the water. Plants left in standing water will die
Temperature: Room temperature of 65-75 degrees F (18.3-24 C)
Fertilizer: Feed lightly once a month with an all purpose soluble houseplant fertilizer like a 10-10-10 or a 5-5-5
Repot: Each spring when dormancy ends (see more below)
Propagation: By division of tubers called tubercles and offsets
Problems: Low light will cause weak growth. Dry air or cool drafts can cause the leaves to yellow and die.
Tips:
1. Always remove any flowers since they drain the tuber of its energy
2. Remove all dead leaves at dormancy
3. If you plant the tubers upside down, they will grow large quantities of smaller leaves which can be beautiful
4. Aphids and spider mites can be possible problems
In The Fall
At the end of summer, or after 6 to 8 months of growth, caladiums will start to look stringy and tired. That's your cue to stop watering them, and put them in full shade to induce a dormancy period.
When the leaves die back, cut them off. You can store the tubers either loose in peat moss or vermiculite, or you can leave them in their pots.
Either way, keep them at room temperature or slightly cooler, but never cooler than 50° F (C) during the winter months. You don't want to let them get too cold during the winter because these are tropical plants that like warm conditions.
When new shoots start to show in the spring - if you left them in their pots - start watering them again.
If you dug them up, repot them first and then begin watering them.
Next Week - How to Grow Caladium Outdoors
Overall caladiums are easy to grow indoors and are stunning to have around. Next week we'll go over how to grow Caladium outdoors!
Other Articles of Interest:
Houseplant Growing Guides - includes pictures and growing information
Caladium bicolor - includes pictures and growing information
For more Gardening Tips and Gardening Advice visit our main gardening website at Weekend Gardener Monthly Web Magazine - http://www.weekendgardener.net/
Have great week!
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Best Time To Transplant Plants
 Typically, gardeners tend to transplant plants, whether they are vegetable, strawberry, tree, shrub, or perennial plants, when they have the time to do it, regardless of the time of day, or the weather.
This is normal, but if you think about it, planning when you transplant your plants is one of the best things you can do because you will ensure your plants getting off to a strong and healthy start.
I mean, why bother with all the time and effort only to have seedling transplants that are going to flag, sag, wilt, and maybe die on you? So let's avoid all this shall we?
The Best Time To Transplant Plants
The best time of day to plant is in the late afternoon when the sun is not so hot, and the wind has calmed down. By taking advantage of this time of day, the new plants have overnight to acclimate.
Strong sun and wind are very hard on new transplants and unless you water carefully, and in some cases provide some shelter from the wind and sun, they can severely wilt. This places your plants under stress at the very beginning of their growing cycle and is not a good idea because sometimes they never bounce back and don't thrive as well as they could have.
Mulching does help since it lowers the rate at which water evaporates from the soil and controls the soil temperature, so that is always a benefit if you must plant in the middle of the day.
The Best Weather To Transplant Plants
Transplants become less stressed when they are set out on a cloudy, calm day. There is some humidity in the air at that time, and no wind will mean less of a chance of the new seedlings getting dried out.
For more Gardening Tips and Gardening Advice visit our main gardening website at Weekend Gardener Monthly Web Magazine - http://www.weekendgardener.net/
Have great week!
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Easy To Grow Hybrid Tea Roses For Beginners
 If you've never grown roses before because you think they may be too hard for you, try these.
The following hybrid tea roses are great for beginners because they will do well in poor soils and less than ideal growing condidtions.
So don't let roses intmidate you any more, try these out, you'll love them!
20 Hybrid Tea Roses For Beginners
Alec's Red
Alpine Sunset
Cheshire Life
Chicago Peace
Elina
Ernest H. Morse
Just Joey
Loving Memory
Michief
National Trust
Peace
Peer Gynt
Piccadilly
Pink Favourite
Remember Me
Rose Gaujard
Royal William
Savoy Hotel
Silver Jubilee
Wendy Cussons
Other Rose Articles You Might Enjoy:
How to Deadhead Roses
How To Plant Bare-Root Trees and Shrubs
How To Prune Roses
Avoid Rose Replant Disease
How to Buy The Best Bare-Root Trees, Shrubs and Roses
For more Gardening Tips and Gardening Advice visit our main gardening website at Weekend Gardener Monthly Web Magazine - http://www.weekendgardener.net/
Have great week!
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Where to Grow Roses
 If you mention the word "Rose" a lot of people will throw their hands up in despair and say something like, "I love roses, but they are just too hard to grow!"
Sound familiar?
Well, growing roses doesn't have to be hard if you have chosen an area that they will do well in.
If you have done that, then you have given yourself a huge step forward toward growing beautiful roses that will last for years to come, because a happy rose will be healthier and more likely to fend of disease and pest problems.
The Best Place To Grow Roses
1. A Sunny Location: Roses love sunny locations, and most types need at least six hours of sun a day to do well. Keep in mind however, roses do prefer morning sun.
- Cool or Overcast Locations: If you live in area that has mostly cool and overcast days, then plant roses where they will get full sun all day long.
- Hot Summer Locations: If you live where you get intense summer heat, then you must give your roses some shelter from the scorching afternoon sun, so try planting them where there is partial shade in the afternoon.
2. Avoid Planting Near Competitive Plants: Roses like a steady supply of nutrients and water, so think about what will be growing near your roses so their roots don't have to compete for water and food.
- For example: Annuals and perennials are not competitive and can be planted all around roses, but many trees and shrubs have shallow root systems that will take a lot of the food and water that was put down for your roses.
- Just be sure you know what kind of root system any trees or shrubs have that may already be next to, or may be planted at some time next to, your roses. If you're not sure, just ask at your local garden center, they'll be able to tell you.
3. Avoid Windy Locations: Roses just don't do will in areas that have steady, strong winds because the wind batters the flowers and can cause the plants to dry out which will require you to water more often than normal. If needed, provide a wind shelter of some kind.
4. Plant In Good Loamy Soil: Roses like good loamy soil that is fast draining, but holds moisture. If you have clay soil that doesn't drain well, or sandy soil that drains too well, then take the time to improve your soil first, you will be very happy that you did.
- Use Raised Beds If Necessary If you live in an area that has a hardpan layer that is like concrete, or soil that just is really bad, then you may want to think about using a raised bed. Sometimes raised beds can save time, money, and frustration, so don't hesitate to go this route if needed.
5. Visibility: If you can, plant your roses where they will be visible from not only your patio area, but from inside the house, because you will enjoy them so much more.
So now you know where to grow roses that will make them happy, which in turn will make you happy, because healthy roses will flower better and be more resistant to insect and disease problems, which is a very good thing!
Another Article You Might Enjoy:
How to Deadhead Roses
For more Gardening Tips and Gardening Advice visit our main gardening website at Weekend Gardener Monthly Web Magazine - www.weekendgardener.net
Have great week!
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An Easier Way To Move Heavy Objects
 With spring upon us, we are all going to be busy planting, digging and moving objects in our gardens.
One of the most common pieces of equipment we use to move heavy objects is a wheelbarrow, but it isn't always the best tool.
If you don't know how to load a wheelbarrow so that it's balanced correctly, you can strain your back, neck and knees pretty seriously while trying to lift, push and then dump it.
A much easier way to go is to use a wagon. Yup, just like the kind you had when you were a kid, except with higher sides perhaps.
A wagon is incredibly useful for moving fertilizer, tools and supplies, to or from the garden, and you'll really appreciate its stability compared to a wheelbarrow.
If you need to move soil or mulch just line the inside with a plastic tarp or a cut up plastic leaf bag - it's so easy.
Try it once, and you'll love the difference!
For more Gardening Tips and Gardening Advice visit our main gardening website at Weekend Gardener Monthly Web Magazine - www.weekendgardener.net
Have great week!
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Spring Lawn Mowing
 Mowing Your Lawn In The Spring
When the weather begins to warm up, your lawn will start to grow as well, but don't rush out with your lawn mower just yet.
It's best to wait to give your lawn that first spring mowing until the grass has grown at least 2 inches (5 cm) or more tall.
This is because the roots are growing and renewing as well, and the grass needs vigorous top growth initially to get off to a healthy start.
As soon as your lawn has reached 2 inches (5 cm) or more in height you can start mowing again. But remember the rule of thumb: Never remove more than a third of the grass blade at any one time.
For example: If you have a bluegrass lawn which does best with a 2 inch (5 cm) cut, then let it grow to 3 inches (7.5 cm) tall and then cut it back by 1 inch (2.5 cm) to get the grass back to optimum height.
More Lawn Care Articles:
How High To Mow Your Lawn
Grow a Green, Lush Lawn - Part 1
Choosing the best grass variety for your area
Grow a Green, Lush Lawn - Part 2
Patching, Overseeding or Starting a New Lawn
For more Gardening Tips and Gardening Advice visit our main gardening website at Weekend Gardener Monthly Web Magazine - www.weekendgardener.net
Have great week!
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